We had to fly BA via Heathrow in order to use my air miles (I'd left it too late to get Swiss flights direct from Manchester), and we were treated to a low flight over central London before landing. It was a clear morning and it was brilliant to see all the landmarks from above. We got fantastic views of Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, Buckingham Palace, the London Eye, the Albert Hall, Wembley etc, and H loved it. We got the same views on the way home, although it wasn't as sunny a day, and that more than made up for the inconvenience of having an extra flight.
Dreilandereck, Basel |
We arrived in Basel** without too many traumas. We had run for our flight at Heathrow as H had been in the loo when the final call was made, and when we got to Basel, H got stuck on the wrong side of a security door. We were the last passengers going through and I went first. The doors wouldn't open again for H,and there was no-one around to tell. I had to speak calmly to him though the glass for around 5 minutes before they decided he could enter Switzerland after all. I say "enter Switzerland" - you have to be careful at Basel airport as it serves 3 countries. The airport is actually in France, and you have to choose which exit to use, to take you to roads into either France, Germany or Switzerland. I am always fascinated (it doesn't take much) by Dreilandereck, the point where the 3 countries meet.
H with the thoughtful trolley! |
We were met at the airport by A and JC, and the first job was to go to the Coop to get a few essential provisions - wine, and bread and cheese for fondue! Even the trip to the supermarket was enjoyable. The trolleys are fitted with magnifying glasses so shoppers who can't see too well can look at the labels in detail! Apparently during a hot day at another store a baby's seat started to melt when the sun had been shining through the glass for a while outside. These trolleys can now only be used when they are kept inside!
H at Pfeffergasslein, the narrowest street in Basel. |
A and JC live in amazing duplex in the city centre, on the narrowest street in the city (1.11 metres at its narrowest). The street can only be reached by walking either up or down many steps (from where they park it is down to get there). The building is very old, and they have the fourth and fifth floors. There is no lift, and the upper floors are reached by climbing a narrow spiral staircase. You do get used to it after a few days, and if I spent a month there I would come home with an amazing bottom, but getting your case up on Day 1 is a killer! I always need a little lie down when I reach the summit.
After a fondue, a couple of bottles of wine and an early night, JC went to work, and A, H and myself got ready for our Alps expedition. We were going to Inden, in the canton of Valais. Although this isn't that high up, the views of the really high mountains as you travel are awesome. The journey is made easier by the train that takes you through the Alps from Kandersteg to Goppenstein. This is more of an engine pulled trolley that you drive on and then wait in complete darkness for the 20 minute ride to be over. Before we got on the train there was snow on the ground all around, and the atmosphere was quite damp. When we came out at the other side it was like when you get off the plane in another country. There was sun, blue sky, and to H's disappointment, no snow! As we got into Inden we could see snow not much further up though.
View from the chalet in Inden |
We arrived at the chalet and when the water had been turned on, we had to get the fire going. It didn't take long at all for us to be so snug we didn't go out for the rest of the day! We had dinner and settled down to watch a DVD. H was having a marvelous time, partly due to being able to play on A's iPad,which is now on his list of things 'I' need to save up for. The chalet is completely pine clad inside, and this soaks up the heat. Before we went to bed we left the bedroom door open for a while to warm that up, and we slept with the bedroom door open to keep warm throughout the night. Inden is a tiny village, very dark, and our chalet was not overlooked so there was no need to close the bedroom shutters at night. Waking up and immediately seeing mountains was great!
Das Beinhaus |
We had a leisurely breakfast and then set off for a day out. First stop was Leuk Stadt, just further down the hill. There are great views from the small town, but we were there to go to St Stephen's church, built in a late Gothic design and completed around 1500. The church is only small, and it houses Das Beinhaus - a bone chamber which is a Black Death memorial.* This is a really weird place. There are walls, each a few metres thick, made completely from skulls and bones retrieved from black death burial grounds. These are full walls, built around a church that is in use. H wasn't keen on them but was fine. I had decided that as we were going he should see it as it was historical and educational, although I'm sure many would disagree. We weren't there long before we continued our journey, the next stop being Sion. Sion is in the French speaking part of Switzerland*** so I was slightly better at the language. We had gone to Sion to have a look at the shops and have lunch in the Manor (a shop I like) restaurant. After a quick look around we nipped back to the chalet to collect our swimming things, then went off to Leukerbad, about a 10 minute drive up the hill.
View from Leukerbad in the evening |
Although Leukerbad is so close to Inden, it took us to the land of snow! There wasn't much, but at least H could mess about and put it down our backs etc. In Leukerbad we went to Burgerbad, the largest alpine thermal spa in Europe. There are 10 thermal pools in the complex, between 28 and 43 degrees C. The complex is 1400 metres above sea level, and most pools are outside. It is amazing to swim outside in water as warm as bath water, but with freezing air on your face, with mountains on all sides to look out on. There are waterfall showers and massage jets, and lots of different places you can sit or lie down while the Jacuzzis relax you. There are the freezing cold then hot plunge pools to increase circulation (I didn't bother with these!), and there is a natural rock grotto (I've been in this once and never again - it is a bit creepy and smells of wee). You have to brace yourself for the cold air as you move from pool to pool. We were in the water for over 2 hours and so were very wrinkly (yes more than normal), but you can go for the day and have a lounger (indoors) to have a break from the pools. After our swim we ventured higher up, and had a walk to a waterfall and the source of the spas. Although we hadn't had a particularly active day we were all completely tired out and another early night was needed.
Through the window shutters, Inden |
We had a massive lie in the next day, before we got our things ready and closed up the chalet. It wasn't a nice journey back as we hit the commuter traffic and there were a few accidents. When we got back to Basel we didn't stay in long before we went to see Herbstmesse, the autumn fair which people come from all over to see. Fairgrounds are set up all over the city (nice ones, not like we see at home!), and one green area has lots of individual stalls and places to eat. We went on the ferris wheel, which takes you as high as the Manchester Wheel, but you aren't completely closed in. We didn't get there until dark but the views were still great. H got his go on the dodgems so he was happy.
We had to leave the next day, and H would have given anything to stay. He loved spending time with A and JC (who are always a hit with the children), and can't wait to go again. We had to carry the case down all the stairs again, then along the street and up steps back to where the car was, then are 2 flights before getting home. I love going to Basel and have been at least once a year for quite a few years now. I think I'll have trouble sneaking off for a few days by myself now though. I won't get through the door without H!
* The Black Death is Europe's greatest disaster - a third of the population died. It hit Europe in 1348. In spring 1348 it was rumoured that it was caused by water pollution, and it was then said that the wells had been deliberately poisoned by Jews. In the summer of 1348 a doctor, while being tortured on a rack in Chillon in Switzerland, admitted to poisoning the wells with a powder sent to him by a Rabbi in Spain. In October it was decided that this confession was proof enough that Jews were responsible for the Black Death. Basel burnt all its Jews, and in the next 9 months through Germany and up to Flanders Jews were burnt in their tens of thousands (in addition to those dying of the plague). Fleeing Jews went to Poland where they were protected by the king, who is said to have had a Jewish mistress. This migration therefore brings into Poland, and subsequently Russia, large communities of Jews speaking Yiddish - their own version of German developed in the medieval centuries.
** Basel is divided into Gross Basel and Klein Basel by the River Rhine. Outside a restaurant on the Rhine at Great Basel is the Lallekonig (tongue king) who sticks his tongue out at Little Basel. The city is on the borders of France and Germany, and a railway station is at each end of the city to take people to the respective countries. 6 bridges link the 2 sides of the city, the first one, at the site of the current Mittlere Brucke in 1225. There are also 3 small passenger ferries going between the sides that are driven by the tide. People swim in the Rhine, and there are signs at the side telling people how to do this safely, as many large and fast boats are on the river. Special bags can be bought so you can undress on the banks of the Rhine and put your outer clothes on this bag, put it across your body, swim down the river (mainly being carried by the sometimes very fast tide), and have dry clothes when you come out! There are several festivals throughout the year in Basel, the most famous being Fasnacht that it on different dates each year depending on when Easter is. This festival starts at 4am on a Monday morning, when more people are in the city centre than live there. All the lights go out and from every little street come groups carrying lanterns and playing piccolos. The festivities continue until Wednesday night, and they follow the same format each year, with times for parades, lantern displays and concerts. It is an experience I can't adequately describe, and after 3 days you need to sleep for a week!
*** There are 4 official languages spoken in Switzerland - German, French, Italian and Rumantsch.